Author Archives: Kristen

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About Kristen

2012 is the year that my fiance, Damien and I have taken leave of work to see this wonderful world we live in. Our adventures have taken us to Scandinavia in the winter to view the ethereal Northern Lights, the heat and humidity of Asia for three months, Europe via caravan and now South America. It has been an amazing ride so far and one that has continues to surprise and delight us. We have seen so many wonderful sights and met so many great people that I know this year will continue to inspire and inform how we live our lives for all the years to come.

You’ve gotta go with the Flo

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An inspired decision was made on a whim when Damien and I waited at the Airport Bar in Sydney.  I noticed on the Malaysia Truly Asia update on my Facebook page that the Australian music festival, Future Music, was making it’s Asian debut in Malaysia the Saturday after we were to arrive. The tickets were at a temptingly cheap price so we thought it was too good an opportunity to pass up.

Future Music was held at the F1 Circuit in Sepang (which is incidently on next week here). The day itself was perfection from beginning to end. Sometimes the magic happens and good thing after good thing keeps happening. Some days are just like that and this was a stellar example. To others the things that made this perfect for Damien and I may not seem so astounding but for us, conditions were perfect. Repeat. Conditions were perfect.

It started with our decision to thumb our noses at the overpriced limousine service at our hotel and try our luck down the road where we had spied a few cabbies having lunch earlier that day. As we entered this small cabbie eating haunt a guy in a car with some tourist travel logo emblazoned on the side drove past, and for whatever reason we and he locked eyes and the next minute he had pulled up and we had piled in. We wheeled a deal with him and were happy with our substantially cheaper transport option. The dude was friendly in the typical Malaysian way, though he did ask us at one point why we had decided to get in his car as he could have been ‘bad’. Bad he wasn’t and soon we had arrived at the Festival.

During the hotter parts of the day there were not massive swarms of people, definitely not the 30 000 we had heard reports of on the radio. However, this was just fine by us as we were able to get our bearings sans crowds and stroll on up to the empty bars for some beers. May I add here that there were no queues for the bars at any stage even at night when there were 1000’s of people at the venue. Photographic evidence attached! Being a seasoned festival goer back home this kind of gift from God is not to be sneezed at! One of the bonuses of drinking in a country where a substantial proportion of the population don’t due to their religion.

The toilet situation was equally good. Anyone who has had the misfortune of having to line up in an exceptionally long queue when you already need to go understands the value of a no toilet queue festival! Though the novelty factor of the Asian style port-a-loo was not lost on me, so a high brow photo of that is attached 😛 As is the curious warning sign about not putting holes in the toilet or bringing candles…cause you know I always carry a candle or two in case I should need one in a festival dunny!

One of the acts we were really keen to check out was Flo Rida. Neither of us were massive fans of this muscle bound behemoth prior to heading o/s but after watching too much MTV in Scandinavian hotels we got more well acquainted with the large man….not as acquainted as we were soon to be though.  In Flo Rida’s Good Feelin’ video clip he spends a lot of time running around the cities of the world with his shirt off. We figured any dude who has such a good opinion of himself as to be comfortable to have his own name inked in massive letters on his back deserves to be witnessed in the flesh. Even if more for our own amusement than listening pleasure.

We soon realised that this was the festival of the Flo as DJ after DJ would drop a sample of his extremely catchy Good Feelin’. The first to do so was none other than the gorgeous Ruby Rose who I was rather stoked to see in real life, literally a couple of metres away. DJs played homage at the temple of the Flo all day and night long, and as Damien remarked even Eddie Halliwell – the epitome of the “I am a God” DJ – dropped Flo’s Good Feelin’.

We both really rated the set by Kyoto Protocol and they are definitely a band I would like to see and hear more of. It was nice to listen to their tunes whilst enjoying a bit of respite from the heat via the breeze that gently blew at this hill top stage.

We were keen not to miss the big man so we sauntered on down to the main stage and caught the end of the Potbelleez just as they started up the tune, “Don’t Hold Back” which I love. We waited in anticipation as the onstage cameraman and DJ revved up the crowd – we were all waiting to go with the Flo. When he finally hit the stage in all his muscle bound magnificence I was soon converted from slightly skeptical arm chair critic to screamin’, dancin’ appreciator! For a man who had apparently just got off an 18 hour flight he certainly had a lot of energy. He was the consummate performer.  As it turns out despite rarely listening to commercial radio I must have by osmosis absorbed a lot more of his tunes than I realised because I knew practically every one. He of course did not disappoint our preconceived impressions and strutted around the stage like he owned the place, and let’s face it, when every other act on the day drops your song into the mix who can help but feel like a God? My personal favourite was when he unashamably exhibited some public self love by kissing his bicep. Thanks Flo. Hilarious. You made my day with that one!

In true performer style he handed out red roses to all the pretty ladies and oh did they love it!  Then all of a sudden it was over and he said goodbye and was off the stage…what, no Good Feelin’? This was rather disappointing. Everyone started to empty out of the area and then bam! He returned to stage with that song as the finale and the departing crowd came running back at top speed. Flo got down amongst the crowd on the shoulders of people and everyone went crazy. It was a gold moment and I luckily caught it on my mobile. Unfortunately my poor phone didn’t cope well with the loud music so about all you can hear is me singing very badly over the top of the din at one point. However, I am willing to put aside my dignity so I can record for posterity in a visual sense what was one of, if not the, favourite part of our day. [NOTE: am having trouble uploading this video, so I will try to do it as a separate post soon]

Riding the good feelin’ and grinning from ear to ear we then enjoyed nearly an hour of Eddie Halliwell before heading to the hilltop to cool down and listen to a little of Chase and Status. They had a really unique sound which I would have happily heard more of except that we really wanted to catch Aussies, Pendulum do their thing. Pendulum were awesome but after about an hour we decided that a serious session of trance was in order so off we went and the DJs there were definite highlights – Fono, John 00 Fleming and Super 8. Damien loves his trance and I realised that night, so do I. Taken over by the brilliance of the day and let’s face it our lives since we ditched work, we were having a moment, reflecting on how much we feel for each other when suddenly uncharacteristically out of nowhere, in time with our ‘moment’ Super 8 stopped his typical trance sound to play a segment of Kings of Leon’s ‘Use Somebody’ . Yep, right at that moment. It was freaky in it’s timing and perfect for our feeling. Thank you Hermes!

We also reflected while we were at the Gnome stage listening to quality trance that coming to this festival was indeed an inspired decision as it was something ‘normal’ to do and we didn’t feel like tourists, just part of something with the locals. We made some local friends at the Gnome stage and I had a great dancing partner  in a chick we met who came from Melaka.

We had rationed out our beer money to last us throughout the day, but as we enjoyed the good vibes at the Gnome stage we realised that we would have to spend our last 30 RM that was reserved for a taxi on two beers. We could get some cash for the taxi when we got back to the Concorde Inn, we reasoned. Money spent and beer drunk we said goodbye to our Malaysian mates and headed over to check out the Chemical Brothers. We were both happy to call it a night shortly thereafter as it had been a long day.

The grand finale in our perfect day was when we reached the bottom of the street where we needed to wait for a taxi. There was instead, lo and behold, a mini bus from the Concorde Inn waiting, already nearly full with other guests. We timed it beautifully as no sooner had we sat our bums on seats the door to the mini van was shut and were we whisked away to the hotel. Perfect indeed. Didn’t need that 30 RM after all!

One last thing worth mentioning from my perspective is that nearly all Malaysians are Kristen-sized. Consequently, I could stand ANYWHERE and watch what was happening on the stage with ease. What a joy and revelation that was to me! No more smelling dirty armpits and dodging elbows for me!

Viva Future Music Asia!

Categories: Future Music Asia, Malaysia, Music, travel | 4 Comments

Salang Beach

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Damien has already told of our days on Salang Beach before our return to Sydney, so I will be brief here. I would like to share my photos though as they tell  a story in themselves.

I loved Salang Beach because it was so laid back and quiet, most days it felt as if we were the only ones there. Maybe this was because it was just at the tail end of the monsoon season or maybe it just isn’t overrun by the hoardes like so many Thai islands are. Either way, I didn’t care. The sun, the sand and the warm ocean were ours to enjoy.

So in brief my favourite aspects of our stay there were (in no particular order):

  • The view from our hillside balcony.
  • The wildlife – cheeky monkeys and impressively huge monitor lizards.
  • The local cats with their stumpy little tails. My favourite was a little furry friend who would meet me at tea time when we would dine at the seafood BBQ. She would mostly sit patiently at my side, sometimes gently patting my leg expectantly with her paw, waiting for a tidbit. I invariably succumbed to her charms as she had the ability to turn on those Puss in Boots eyes (if you have seen Shrek, you will know what I mean).I could not resist the cuteness 🙂
  • Long hours spent laying on the sand and in the water.
  • Having enough time to devour three books.
  • The abundance of beautiful tropical fish and coral. Which on a still day, I could see through the water with the same clarity as I would have through goggles.
  • The friendliness of the locals.
  • And the knowledge that we had picked the best Tioman beach to chill out on.

I hope we return one day!

Categories: Malaysia, travel | Leave a comment

TIA

Before our trip to Scandanavia pretty much all of my overseas travel has been concentrated in Asia. So I feel that I have a reasonable handle on the quirks of Asia and have developed a comfort level with all it can present to you.

However, after three weeks in Northern Europe when we arrived on Salang Sayang, Pulau Tioman and we trudged laden with backpacks to the far end of the beach I admit to being somewhat unthrilled with our chosen destination to dethaw. I like to think that perhaps I was suffering from a little jet lag and this was colouring my experience…ask anyone who knows me well…I am not a happy camper when I am tired! But my first impressions as we walked along were, well, this isn’t the travel brochure pictures I was expecting, I mean what’s with that run down piece of so and so there, and what’s with that dilapidated piece of crap there and has anyone heard of a coat of paint???

Anyway, jet lag quickly whisked me away and I pretty much slept through my grumpy introduction to Salang Sayang with the soothing sounds of a monsoonal downpour no less…it’s not all bad, you see.

So I had to admit to myself that I had indeed suffered a little from that old chestnut…culture shock.

Jet lag dealt with, I awoke with my rose-coloured Malaysian sunnies on and all was good in the world again. Suddenly all those little  bits and pieces that were no good yesterday started to seem OK, good even. I mean TIA afterall!  This is why we love it, if it was perfect, it wouldn’t be Asia and it wouldn’t endear itself to me quite as much as it has over the years.

Let me explain TIA. It’s a phrase we have stolen from Leonardo DiCaprio…well, his character in Blood Diamond anyway. Not long before we went on the trip we were watching Blood Diamond and there is a line in the movie where in an effort to explain all that is Africa, his character simply says matter of factly, TIA ‘This is Africa”.

And as I was adjusting to life in Asia again, TIA (This Is Asia) sprung into my mind and I was not at all surprised when without me even mentioning this thought to Damien, a couple of days into island time, he of his own accord casually said TIA in reference to some little oddity we were experiencing and I knew exactly what he meant!

Here’s a few examples of TIA:

  • We were staying in a hillside bungalow with a million dollar view of golden sand and azure waters….but we had to flush the toilet in the good old way…using a bucket. Oh and when I cleaned my teeth my feet always got wet, I realised halfway through the stay that was because the basin had a pipe that emptied straight onto the bathroom floor. TIA.
  • The salt on the restaurant tables, is in fact not salt at all. Careful inspection of the label reveals that it is MSG (with possibly some ‘trace’ elements of salt…but I couldn’t taste it). Even closer inspection of the ingredients label on the pepper uncovers that it too has MSG. WTF? TIA. Consequently, on our brief return to Sydney we purchased some salt to bring with us as we both recalled that (although we had forgot) the other Asian countries also have this love affair with MSG.
  • An off the island example, and not a pleasant one, is when we were waiting at the bus station in Mersing and I spied a table with no one seated at it. Success! As I descended to stake my claim, I soon realised why no one was there…the back end of what was once a kitten was left under the table (in food court area). TIA.
  • We are now staying in Melaka in a lovely little Guest House on the Melaka River. The owners are friendly, the place is clean, quiet and backs onto the Melaka River which is charming in bucket loads….but more about that later. Our room may be basic but it has a MASSIVE bed, air con and our own little balcony – which is actually quite gross…but it’s a balcony.TIA. But on the first day as I arose to greet the morning I went to pull back the curtain to take in the less than salubrious view out onto our balcony and the whole curtain rail came off the wall. TIA. Told the owner and her response was, whilst smiling sweetly of course, “I don’t know how to fix it’. TIA.

There will be ample more of these experiences all the way but all I can say is that I love it. When things are sometimes a little more basic, not so perfect, not always bright and shiny it just seems somehow more fun and dare I say it, more real.

So I’ll step out today and hunt down the next Melakan culinary masterpiece and try to ignore the occasional waft of eau de toilet and marvel at how fine this little slice of Malaysia is.

Categories: food, Malaysia, Melaka, travel | Leave a comment

Millennium city

I just got off the phone to my Mum and Dad and Mum said she was disappointed that we haven’t posted for a while so I have stopped slothing around watching very bad music videos on MTV to make a post.

We had a great last night in Oslo. After finishing our bottle of Shiraz we were keen for some company so we strolled across the park from where we were staying to the Park Theatre Bar. It was a funky little establishment and we were lucky to score a table. Even luckier as it turned out that we had two spare seats opposite us which ended up a real bonus as throughout the night we met a series of really interesting peeps who asked if they could sit with us. The first two were a Norwegian guy and German girl who had met in Thailand on a holiday and were meeting up again for the first time in Oslo. We really hit it off. They invited us to join them at a house party they were going to and we felt quite disappointed that we had to say no, ’cause we thought it would be prudent not to get involved in late night drinking when we had to leave for Sweden the next day. There was a brief interlude of three other Norwegian guys but as they were one seat down, they eventually moved on. The end of our night was then spent with an Aussie expat who has been living and working in Norway for ten years and his German colleague. They were geologists from Statoil and we thoroughly enjoyed their entertaining and intelligent conversation.

We arrived in Stockholm via train from Oslo and stayed at the Sheraton for the night as it was right near the station and we weren’t in the mood for traipsing around town like pack horses to find a bed to crash in. I think old Hermes might have had a hand in that decision, as it just so happened that the Sheraton is where Harriet Vanger stayed when she came to Stockholm. For those not familiar with Harriet, she is a character in the Millennium trilogy by Stieg Larsson.

It also just so happens that the Sheraton has a booklet that provides a walking guide (mostly through Sodermalm) of all the key places that are mentioned in the books. Damien and I are fans of Larsson and so this appealed immensely. Damien has just finished reading, ‘Stieg and Me’ by Eva Gabrielsson, that my parents gave us for Christmas. I am in the final stages of the last book in the trilogy. I think it is a testament to how great his books are that I have had to share this third one with both my Mum and Damien as we all have wanted to read it at the same time! I handed it over to Mum when she went on a cruise around NZ but retrieved it so I could finish it in Scandanavia. She has since got her hands on another copy so she can finish it, but now I am having to share it with Damien as he has started reading it again when I have put it down! Anyway, I will finish it today for sure 🙂

We started our walking trip with a tasty feed of sushi at Jappi Sushi & Wok. I was very pleased with this outcome as I have been eyeing off Sushi joints in Norway but they were too expensive there, so it was great to indulge in Sweden! Jappi is on Drottingatan which is the Pitt Street mall of Stockholm…though much prettier in my opinion. We then walked through the Old Town, Gamla Stan which I am looking forward to exploring in greater detail today.

The Millenium walk kicked off in Slussen and then we strolled past the building where Milton Security was located in the book. Next stop was Lisbeth Salander’s very expensive apartment on Fiskargatan 9. Apparently the apartment is 350 square meters and has 21 rooms! I took a picture of ‘her’ view of Stockholm from the front of the apartments. We went past a number of other locations from the books and finished up outside Bellmansgatan 1 which is the home address of Mikael Blomvist in the book. It was late afternoon then so my picture is not the best, but at least you can get a feel for what it looks like. We completed our Millenium tour with a coffee at Kaffebar on Hornsgatan, which is frequented by Blomvist and Berger in the books. Apparently this was in reality Stieg Larsson’s favourite coffee shop.

We did consider Stieg-ing it right up and going out to see the movie The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo that night but it was on really late and we didn’t relish a 15-20 min walk home after midnight in -4 degrees so we took the soft option and stayed indoors!

Damien is currently reading the last book as I type and he just had to stop me to read a paragraph that details where Blomvist drove through a section of Soder and parked his car outside the Bishop Arms near Bellmansgatan 1…he was stoked as he could picture it! Yes indeed!

Categories: food, Norway, Oslo, Scandinavia, Sodermalm, Stieg Larsson, Stockholm, Sweden, travel | Tags: | 6 Comments

Nice Norwegians

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We left Tromso behind this morning but received a suitable send-off in the form of a beautiful sunrise over the mountain peaks from the comfort of our plane seats. We landed in Oslo and headed to the home of Elin and Malin in Grunerlokka, which is a hip and happening part of town that has a similar vibe to Surry Hills in Sydney. We were once again singing the praises of Globalfreeloaders for exposing us to such a cool place in Norway, which we quite possibly would not have visited otherwise.

Malin had made her way home to let us in and made us feel welcome straight away. We spent half an hour chatting and enjoyed listening to Malin’s stories of her nine months in Australia. There is a lovely picture of her feeding two King Parrots when she was living in Orange and other memorabilia of her time in our country around their home. Malin had to go out so she gave us a key to the place explained that she would be out for most of the night as would her Mum, Elin, but we should make ourselves at home. It’s kind of a shame that we have to leave so early tomorrow morning, as I would have liked to have got to know Malin and Elin. Their home faces into a communal courtyard. Inside it has an eclectic mix of quirky photography, posters, art books leaning against window sills and shaggy animal furs adorning seats. We were told to make ourselves at home and quite frankly, right now as we sit at the wooden kitchen table under lamp light drinking a cheapish Australian shiraz we found across the road, I feel at home! I once again have felt the warmth and trust of the lovely Norwegian people we have come to meet on this trip, and I hope truely to be able to return the favour in kind when we find ourselves a new home upon our return.

Today was not a big tourist extravaganza for us. We spoilt ourselves by eating out at lunch and enjoyed an amazing couple of Croque Madames. At the recommendation of Malin we walked through the streets to our first stop, the Opera House, which Elin suggested we go to in an email exchange. Both were good advice and offered interesting city sights. Then we headed to the National Gallery which we both walked away from impressed with. Not least because in the first room of the Gallery the very first statue we stood in front of was a carved bust of none other than Hermes. Hermes is one of two Gods we pay homage to. Hermes is a Greek deity of antiquity who is the God of travellers and we oft find reason to thank him during our travels. The usual way being a simple “Hail Hermes!’ He is also the God of less auspicious things such as thieves and weights and measures. But he also looks after a few of our other interests such as literature, orators and poets.

Our other God is Bacchus. Three weeks after we met we went on a road trip around regional Australia together. The purpose of the trip was to eat and drink our way around a fine selection of the one and two hat restaurants in the countryside. It was a completely gluttonous and delightful experience and we soon decided that we needed to thank Bacchus, the Roman God of wine (and good times!) for the adventure. We’ve remained faithful servants to Bacchus since. And the two Gods combined are a formidable force in ensuring we have great times together! So, it was no surprise then that we should see a painting of a Baccanalian gathering as we exited the room we started with Hermes.

On a serious note though, we saw some amazing art in the gallery such as the The Thinker (which I had no idea was in Oslo) and Munch’s Scream. This is probably not the thing to say, but I liked some of Munch’s other works more. Not that it wasn’t wonderful to see such an iconic piece of modern art with my own eyes.

I’m a bit sorry this is all the time we have for Oslo, but I’m sure we will return.

Categories: Art, food, Norway, Oslo, Scandinavia, travel, Tromso | 2 Comments

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